Questions about using 010Plus

Will 010Plus lighten Asian hair by two levels in foils if I mix with 30vol?

Firstly I would do a test on a foil it will only take 10 minutes to do the test and is well worth it - the client may also have some colour in her hair that she had forgotten to tell you about. Best to move forward knowing exactly what to expect. In most cases I would say yes it will lighten 2 levels on very dark hair.  Also leave it a little longer than the 10 minutes as it is doing two process it is lightening and distributing colour.

Applying foils can take a half an hour or more - will the colour remain active for that time?

the recommendation to be safe would be to do it in two mixes of colour so that after 15-20 mins you will mix a fresh mix to of sure of even colour.  Having said this the colour does remain active for a long time however the oxygen in the air may dilute some of the strength especially if you are lightening.

When does the processing time start? After full application?

The processing time starts after the full application of the colour. For very resistant hair it is best to give another 2-3 minutes.

I like to foil when I tint at the same time - how do I do this if the colour only takes 10 mins to process?

Then apply the foils first and then apply the colour to the roots after and if it does take a little longer for the foils to get to desired shade the 010Plus is not progressive (meaning it wont darken if left on longer)

What about combing the colour through to the ends after application?

This is a common procedure in salons. It is not recommended because what you would be doing is adding too much pigment into the hair. Too mush pigment will make the hair flat and dull. The best way to freshen the ends is with a semi colour and this can be done with 010Plus by add in Pure tone to the mix and putting that through to the ends. You will have a beautiful colour and shine.  (Remember you don't need to colour the grey when freshening the ends you only need the highlight tone that is what has faded.)

Is the colour mix always 1:1.5?

It is mostly that ratio and this mix helps to keep the service cost effective, but there are instances where the mix should be different.  Very resistant grey hair will have a better coverage result if you mix 1:1.

What is the difference between the /0 and the /00 series of colour?

The /00 series contains more pigment and a deeper coverage especially in resistant grey hair.  The /00 series having more pigment is also a warmer tone and is a half level darker. The coverage of the /0 series can be improved by adding /00 or replacing the /0 with /00 in the mix as shown below.

A good rule is as follows for grey percentage

0-30% grey = 15gr of /0 or /00 and 25gr fashion shade.

30-60% grey = 20 gr of /0 or /00 and 20gr fashion shade.

60-90% grey = 25gr of /0 or /00 and 15gr fashion shade.

All mixed with developer at 1:1.5 unless hair has glassy resistance, then mix 1:1.

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